Morgane – tedDIYbear

HOW TO REPAIR OPEN SEAMS

Morgane — Tue, 28 Jan 2025 11:00:50 +0000

Sometimes, life’s twists and turns can cause a little damage to your plushie. In today’s case, the seams gave way to an opening in the neck area. Fortunately, this kind of trouble is easy to fix! With only a thread and a needle, you can make your stuffed animal brand new again!

DAMAGE IDENTIFICATION

The stuffed elephant below has a large opening in the neck. A thread has popped out without us knowing why, and if we don’t do something about it, the more it’s handled, the more the thread will continue to detach from the fabric, and eventually decapitate the stuffed elephant. Thus, we need to repair the opening with a brand-new seam!

CHOOSE THE LADDER STITCH

Also known as the invisible stitch, it allows you to sew without thread showing. It is designed to hide the stitches on the backside/inside. This is a great technique for closing seams and repairing holes on right sides (see the drawing). All you need is a sewing thread in the same color as the fabric, a pair of scissors and a needle.

REPAIR THE OPENING

Hide the knot by starting from the inside, a few centimeter/inches away from the opening. From the bottom (the body), join the top (the neck) by going horizontally through the fabric (first photo), then insert the needle into the bottom (third photo), directly across from where the thread came out on the previous stitch, and so on until you reach the part of the thread that is still attached. Sew over it to secure it. Try to keep a consistent stitch length. Then, tie a sturdy double knot, hide it in the fur using a needle, and also take out the fur that might be stuck

The stuffed elephant now has a good head on its shoulders!

HOW TO SEW A MINIATURE TEDDY BEAR

Morgane — Tue, 01 Feb 2022 12:00:14 +0000

Because good things come in small packages, we will see in this article how to sew a miniature teddy bear! In a previous tutorial, we learned how to sew an average size teddy bear. This time, the steps are even more detailed! This means that this DIY is even more accessible for beginners, and a few techniques are different. With my pattern, you will create teddy bears of at less than 10 centimetres high. You can see the size difference between the taller one and the smaller one on this Instagram post. Because of the small size of this project, I would not recommend using a sewing machine, but I would rather suggest doing it by hand. You can find the list of supplies below, as well as the free printable pattern in A4 format.

SUPPLIES LIST

Light brown teddy Bear

Dark brown teddy bear

Materials/Tools

Faux fur fabric (body):
Colour RF15
Faux fur fabric (paw pads):
Colour n°02
Glass eyes:
6mm | Sparkle brown
Velvet nose:
9x11mm | Dark brown:
Polka dot button: Buttinette.com

Faux fur fabric (body):
Colour n°29
Faux fur fabric (paw pads):
Colour n°37
Glass eyes:
6mm | Light brown
Plastic nose:
6x8mm | Black

Polyester fibre:
“Soft flocks”
Embroidery floss:
100pcs cotton embroidery skeins
Sewing threads:
Brown colour set
Bolts, nuts and washers :
3x10mm (limbs) + 4x12mm (head)
Scissors + pins + needles + sewing punch

Light brown teddy Bear

Faux fur fabric (body):
Colour RF15
Faux fur fabric (paw pads):
Colour n°02
Glass eyes:
6mm | Sparkle brown
Velvet nose:
9x11mm | Dark brown:
Polka dot button: Buttinette.com

Dark brown teddy bear

Faux fur fabric (body):
Colour n°29
Faux fur fabric (paw pads):
Colour n°37
Glass eyes:
6mm | Light brown
Plastic nose:
6x8mm | Black

Materials/Tools

Polyester fibre:
“Soft flocks”
Embroidery floss:
100pcs cotton embroidery skeins
Sewing threads:
Brown colour set
Bolts, nuts and washers :
3x10mm (limbs) + 4x12mm (head)
Scissors + pins + needles + sewing punch

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Necessary amount of fabric The teddy bear measures 10 cm when standing up and 5 cm when sitting down. For the entire body, I am using a fur strip of 25 x 19 cm, and for the paw pads, a strip of 7 x 10 cm. See the third picture of the step called “preparing the pieces” to give you a better idea of the distribution of the pattern on the fabric, following the direction of the pile (nap).

Tip #1 Print the pattern on a thick piece of paper (photo paper for example) or on simple paper that you will glue onto a piece of cardboard to give it some thickness, which will make it easier to manipulate.

Tip #2 When you are sewing on the wrong side, make sure to always push the fur inward to prevent it from being stuck in the seam. Then, on the right side, with the help of a pin or a needle, go through the seams delicately to take out any fur that might be stuck in there.

PREPARING THE PIECES

For many pieces, simply trace the pattern once on the fabric, then a second time with the pattern flipped so it looks like the mirror image of the first one (image 1 + 2). Use a pen or a pencil, do not use felt-tip pens as they can stain your hands and thus, the fabric you are handling. Make sure to follow the direction of the pile (nap), it is indicated by a black arrow on image 3. Lastly, cut the fabric leaving at least 1 centimetre of seam allowance (image 4). Put reference marks for the joints.

Click on the pictures to show them in full size.

You should end up with the following pieces:

SEWING THE BODY

This method is different from the one used for the big teddy bear: instead of sewing four pieces together, we will only work with two. Use a thread of a colour that blends nicely with the fabric (image 1). Transfer one piece onto the other, the right-sides facing and the fur in the same direction (image 2), then pin it all the way around. Sew the fabric along the dotted line on image 3, without forgetting to leave an opening on the side, which we will use to turn it right-side out later, and stuff it too. There you go! The piece that constitutes the body is ready (image 4).

SEWING THE HEAD

This is the most difficult part, so do not hesitate to watch the video at the bottom of the page to help you.

You have three pieces of fabric: the forehead, and the side of the head in two copies, one being the mirror image of the other (image 1). Start by connecting the two sides together (image 2), fur against fur, then pin them and sew the part of the snout indicated by the dotted line on image 3. You will end up with one single piece (image 4). Now, add the forehead piece (image 5), fur against fur as always, giving the impression of an elephant’s trunk. Pin and then sew the small part indicated by the dotted line on image 7. Our three pieces are now combined in one (image 8). Pin one side of the forehead to one side on the head (image 10), then sew the first few centimetres like indicated by the dotted line on image 11. Do the same thing for the other side and continue alternating between the two until you reach the neck, which you will leave open for now (image 12).

SEWING THE EARS

After the most difficult part, here is the easiest one! Take two sets of two pieces of fabrics and lay them one against another, fur against fur. Pin them and then sew the outline (image 2), leaving the bottom part open. And voilà, you now have your two beautiful ears (image 2)!

SEWING THE PAW PADS

To sew an arm completely, you need to start by connecting the palms to the inner arms (they are the shortest arm pieces). Put one of the palms at the bottom of an inner arm piece, paying attention to which side it goes on (left or right). Turn the palm upward and pin it so that the two pieces are fur against fur (image 2). Sew along the dotted line on image 3. Repeat these steps to end up with two inner arm pieces with their palms attached.

SEWING THE ARMS

Lay an inner arm piece, now complete with the palm, against an outer arm piece, fur against fur (image 2). Pin the fabric and sew along the dotted line on image 3, leaving an opening at the back. Repeat the process so you end up with two complete arms, a left one and a right one, with their palms turned inward.

SEWING THE LEGS

STEP 1 TO 4: fold one leg in half lengthwise on the right-sides, so that you work on the wrong side, pin it then sew along the dotted line, leaving an opening for the sole, and another one to turn the fabric right-side out and to stuff the leg later.

STEP 5 TO 8: take one of the soles and put it against the dedicated opening. Make sure that the good side faces the inside of the leg. Pin the outline and sew it to attach the two pieces together. Repeat the same steps to make another leg.

The different elements of the teddy bear are now ready to be assembled!

TURNING RIGHT-SIDE OUT

If needed, start by reducing the seam allowance with scissors (image 1). You now need to turn the body pieces right-side out. If the teddy bear was bigger, you would be able to do it with your hands, but because the elements are so small, it is better to use pliers (with a round edge to avoid damaging or putting a hole in the fabric). Pinch the inside and bring it towards the outside (image 2).

Do not forget about tip#3: on the right side, with the help of a pin or a needle, go through the seams delicately to take out any fur that might be stuck in there)

CREATING THE FACE: THE EYES AND THE NOSE

Stuff (temporarily) the head and use round headed pins to preview the placement of the eyes and the nose (image 1). Use a sewing punch to make holes (image 2) and insert the elements into them. If you are satisfied with their placement, take the stuffing out and secure the elements in place thanks to their locking disk, from the inside of the head (image 3). Then, stuff the head again.

For more detailed information about safety eyes and noses, take a look at this article.

CREATING THE FACE: THE SMILE

To switch things around compared to the previous tutorial, I suggest embroidering the smile before closing the opening of the head. Use a thread that matches the colour of the nose and an embroidery needle. Start from the inside of the head in order to hide the knot (image 1), then embroider the desired smile (see the video at the bottom of the page for the step-by-step process). With the help of small pliers, take out the stuffing that might come out with the thread.

For more detailed explanations on embroidering smiles, this article is here for you.

ADDING THE JOINT FOR THE HEAD

Now, we are going to close the opening of the head. Sew with a running stitch all the way around the neck (image 2). Put a bolt in a disk through the opening (image 3), letting the pin stick out, then pull on the thread to close the neck and tie a knot. You should have a result such as the one in image 4.

DOWNSIZING THE EARS (OPTIONAL)

My pattern lets you choose between big and small ears: in this step, I suggest checking out how to narrow down the ears. To do this, start by sewing a new, smaller semicircle (image 2). Then, cut the first seam with scissors (image 3). Lastly, turn each ear right-side out (image 4).

ATTACHING THE EARS

Close the bottom part of the ears by sewing them by hand. You can leave them empty or stuff them. Once closed, position them with pins (image 1). Hide the first knot in the neck area (image 2), then sew through the layers of fabric (the head and the ear) (image 3). Go through it again until each ear stays firmly in place (image 4).

ADDING THE LIMBS JOINTS

If you did not mark the placement of the joints, or if you would like to check that their placement is correct, simulate them with pins (image 1). Once you are satisfied with the result (image 2), make a hole with a sewing punch in the limbs by going through the opening (image 3), then insert a bolt with a washer (image n°4).

The teddy bear’s limbs are now ready to be attached to the body!

ASSEMBLING THE BODY

To attach a limb, start by making a hole with a sewing punch in the body (image 1). Insert the bolt of the limb inside the body from the outside, then add a disk to it (image 2) and secure with a nut (image 3). Do the same thing for the other parts of the teddy bear, including the head (image 4).

STUFFING THE BODY

You can now finally stuff your teddy bear! I am using small pliers in order to distribute the stuffing evenly. The type of stuffing you use is important, the firmer it is, the more muscular your teddy bear will be, and the lighter and fluffier it is, the softer it will be.

ADDING A BUTTON (OPTIONAL)

Before closing the opening of the back, you have the possibility of customising your teddy bear even further by adding a navel. Insert the needle through the opening of the back and make it come out in the navel area. Insert the button into the needle (image 1 + 2), then put it back into the belly (image 3). Pull the thread and tie a knot (image 4).

CLOSING THE SEAMS

The last step before cuddling your new teddy bear too.">is to close all the openings. One for the body, one for the head, and one for each limb. Use a ladder stitch to make the seam invisible. Hide the knot by starting from the inside. Once the openings are closed, take out the fur that might be stuck.

There you go! Your mini teddy bear is ready for adventure! You can find the video of the making process below.

HOW TO EMBROIDER NOSES AND SMILES

Morgane — Wed, 15 Dec 2021 12:00:30 +0000

Shy, candid, or playful, a stuffed animal’s smile is an essential step. You can make it match to the nose by using the same thread and by starting to embroider from it. In this article, we will learn how to embroider 4 different nose and smile shapes to change the facial expression. In addition to this little tutorial, use the video below, which shows step by step how to embroider them on a piece of felt.

CHOOSING THE EMBROIDERY THREAD

To embroider a smile and a nose, you can choose between stranded cotton or pearl cotton. The former is made of 6 strands that can be separated from one another, which gives you the choice for the thickness. It is more popular because it is very versatile. The latter only has one indivisible strand, available in multiple numbered thicknesses. It is easier to use for beginners and more willingly brings a 3D aspect to your creations. You will also find all kinds of effect threads: lights, stars, satin, metallic, phosphorescent, etc. You can buy higher quality skeins, such as the ones from DMC, or opt for cheaper ones that you will easily find in non-specialized stores. The cheaper options will allow you to have a variety of shades at a reasonable price.

Tip: prefer cotton or polyester, and avoid wool, which is less resistant and frays when you separate the strands.

EMBROIDERING SNOUTS

When embroidering the nose of your stuffed animal, you have infinite shape possibilities to choose from. Once you have assimilated the technique, you will easily grow your range. The number of stitches to sew depends on the thickness of the thread you have previously chosen and on the desired result. Among the most popular shapes, there is the triangular nose, the rectangular nose, and the “bear” snout. You can embroider horizontally (third picture) or vertically (other pictures). The sequence can be symmetrical: a stitch on the right side, then a stitch on the left side (first and second picture), or it can be divided into two parts: finish one side before moving on to the other side (forth picture).

Video note: I am using stranded cotton with two strands for the nose.

Follow the numbers to embroider line by line, from 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and so on.
Start by stitching from the inside out on number 1, so that the knot will not be visible (or hide it in the neck area).
Once the shape is outlined, you can go through the entirety of the nose again to define it further and fill the gaps.

Tip: to guide you, trace the outline with a pencil, or glue on a piece of felt and then cover it with the embroidery thread.

EMBROIDERING SMILES

Once the nose is embroidered, the only thing left is to make a smile to match. You have a wide range of different facial expressions there as well. Start with the highest stitch. I am alternating between straight stitch and back stitch. To see how to embroider them step by step, go to the second part of the video below. If the stuffed animal has long fur, you should use very thick pearl cotton or trim the fur.

Video note: I am using stranded cotton with four strands for the smile.

Do not hesitate to practice on pieces of felt before reproducing it on your stuffed animals.

You can find the video of this tutorial below.

DIY PUMPKIN PLUSH

Morgane — Sun, 31 Oct 2021 12:00:57 +0000

I love the autumn atmosphere, the colours, the falling leaves, and the pumpkins that make their way into our homes. Today, I am offering a tutorial on how to sew a stuffed pumpkin plush, which makes perfect Halloween or seasonal decorations. And because there are lots of different types of pumpkins out there, we are going to learn to make two different shapes: one round and one hexagonal. This DIY project is suitable for beginners, very easy to make, and requires very few supplies. You can use a sewing machine or make it entirely by hand if you do not have one. Here below, you will find the supplies list and the free downloadable pattern in A4 format.

This article explains the process with pictures, the video of the making process is at the bottom of the page.

SUPPLIES LIST

Faux fur <5mm:
Bright orange.
Dark green.

Stuffing fibre: White polyester “Soft Flocks”.
Embroidery and sewing needle.

- - Sewing thread (orange + dark green): DMC
  - Embroidery thread (orange): DMC
- - Pins and a pair of scissors.

Faux fur <5mm: Bright orange. Dark green.
Stuffing fibre: White polyester “Soft Flocks”.
Embroidery and sewing needle.
Sewing thread (orange + dark green): DMC
Embroidery thread (orange): DMC
Pins and a pair of scissors.

Necessary amount of fabrics The pumpkins are about 11cm high and 12cm wide. You will need an orange 32x22cm piece of fabric and a tiny piece of green fabric.

PART I

Tip: print the pattern on a thick sheet of paper (photo paper for example), or on a simple sheet of paper that you will glue to a piece of cardboard to make it thicker, which will make handling it easier.

If possible, start by putting the fabric in a washing machine, so that fur fabrics will shed less when you work with them. Transfer the pattern on the backside of the fabric (image 1) and trace four identical pieces in the orange faux fur (image 2). Then, cut the outline, leaving at least a 1-centimetre seam allowance. Fold each piece in half and sew the openings on the back, following the dotted line (image 3). You should end up with four leaf-shaped pieces (image 4).

Click on the pictures to show them in full size.

PART II

Lay two pieces against one another, fur against fur (image 1), and pin the entire outline before sewing along the dotted line (image 2). Align the seams carefully, as indicated by the arrow on image 3. Repeat the same steps with the two remaining pieces, and the two parts of your pumpkin will be ready (image 4).

PART III

Lay the two sewn pieces against one another, right sides facing (image 1 & 2), then pin them to hold them in place. Sew along the dotted line, leaving the top open (image 3). Make sure that the bottom seams connect correctly. The body of the pumpkin is done (image 4)!

PART IV

You can now stuff the pumpkin (image 1). Start by turning it right-side out. With a needle and an orange embroidery thread (because it is stronger than a sewing thread for this step), sew all around the opening with a running stitch (image n°2 + 3). Start from the inside to hide the first knot in the pumpkin. Now all you have to do is to pull the thread to close the opening, tie a strong knot and cut the rest of the thread with scissors (image n°4).

PART V

It is now time to make the stem, which is the easiest part. Cut a small piece of green fabric, fold it (image 2), and sew it on the backside, along the dotted line (image 3). Lastly, turn the stem right-side out (image 4).

PART VI

Place the stem on the top of the pumpkin. This way, you will be able to hide the knot you made when closing the opening of the pumpkin (image 1). Hold it in place using pins (image 2). Sew the stem, driving the needle through the pumpkin and through the stem, and make your way all around the stem (image 3). There you go! Your pumpkin is done (image 4).

We will now make the hexagonal version.

PART I - BIS

Follow the first two steps of Part I, cutting four pieces out of the pattern. In this version, we will not sew the openings immediately. Start by pinning two pieces fur against fur (image 1) and sew along the dotted line (image 2). You end up with half of the pumpkin (image 3). Repeat the same step for the two remaining pieces. Place the two big, seamed pieces against one another, pin them and sew the outline without going through the top (image 4). You now have the body of the pumpkin in a single piece!

PART II - BIS

You can now close the openings (image 1) by connecting them to each other (image 2) but be careful to leave a small opening on the top. The pumpkin is ready to be stuffed (image 3)! At this stage, follow the same steps used for the round-shaped pumpkin, with parts IV (stuffing), V (making of the stem), and VI (attaching the steam). You should end up with a well-defined pumpkin (image 4).

There you go! Your pumpkins are ready for autumn

You can find the video of the making process below.

WHERE TO FIND AFFORDABLE PLUSH MAKING SUPPLIES

Morgane — Wed, 04 Aug 2021 12:00:17 +0000

To make dolls and stuffed animals yourself, you need to start by getting the necessary tools and supplies. In this article, I will tell you my favourite places (none of them are sponsoring me) to buy fabric, thread, elements, etc. Do not hesitate to watch the video at the bottom of the page, in which I gathered good finds.

Buttinette: original fabrics, very beautiful, soft, and at a reasonable price. It is the first shop I visit when shopping for plush making supplies. If you are looking for faux animal skins (giraffe, leopard, cow, etc.), this is the right place! I made the teddy bear’s paws with high quality faux suede from that store. However, the long-haired furs I have tried were not as soft as I wished. The fabric and thread sets are affordable and a must. There, you can also find very useful tools and wide range of stuffings. The shipping costs are a little bit high, so I would recommend to buy in bulk to get free shipping.

MaPetiteMercerie: a wide variety of very soft high-quality fabrics (Oeko-Tex® certified). The fabric is sold per 10 cm by 150cm, which allows you to order the desired quantity, and the price is very affordable. It is perfect for small creations, especially if you do not wish to have remnants that you may not want to reuse. I made the Halloween pumpkins with two pieces of fabric from that store: one orange and the other meadow green. The ‘Délice’ furs are some of my favourites! The customer service is very responsive. This is a very good store for furs and jersey fabrics.

GlassEyesOnLine: there is no better online store to order glass eyes. It is a small family-owned business based in the United States, who specialises in handcrafted facial elements for stuffed animals and dolls. They also sell snouts and joints, but I have only tried the eyes so far. You can buy them individually or by pairs. The quality is exceptional, especially for the glistening ones. They are perfect if you want your stuffed animal to have eyes that shine. The store also sells elements specifically made for stuffed cats, koalas, or even dinosaurs! They deliver worldwide.

eBay, Etsy, Amazon, and AliExpress are all platforms where independent sellers are gathered. This means you can find anything, and at various prices, but usually cheaper than anywhere else because there is no intermediary between you and the manufacturer. On the first two platforms, I buy very good embroidery patches (see photo gallery). However, be careful not to be mislead, especially on Etsy, because many occidental sellers offer the same articles you can find on AliExpress, but at 5 times the price. As for AliExpress, you can find a lot of very good deals there! If you are looking for long-haired faux fur, that is where you should order it. I used one for the fur of my teddy bear, for which I made a tutorial. The website offers excellent quality short-haired, corduroy, or even raised fabrics. There are also supplies to make beautiful wigs for dolls, tools, accessories to make your own pom-pom balls, joints to articulate your creations, etc. Many brands of DIY kits are available on Amazon. My advice would be to always read customer reviews carefully (especially those with photos and natural light).

Specialised stores are often small, but their range of products is that much more interesting and, despite what you might think, they are usually less expensive than bigger non-specialised stores. They offer a wide range of supplies for all kinds of hobbies, as well as informed advice. Lastly, I would recommend non-specialised stores as well. You can find good deals in stores that sell a little bit of everything. They often have a dedicated aisle for crafts, with mini kits or haberdashery. It is mostly about finding the interesting little “extras” that will be a nice addition to your toolkit.

Here below a video in which I gathered good finds.

SAFETY EYES AND NOSES

Morgane — Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:00:26 +0000

The face is an important step in the making of a stuffed animal or a doll. Let’s see what are safety eyes and noses, and how to attach them.

NOSE SHAPES AND TEXTURES

Very useful to give depth to the face, ready-to-apply noses offer a wide range of options. Among the more frequent options, there are triangular, round, heart, and snout shapes; made in plastic, velvet, or glass; and some are hand-painted, while others are painted industrially. The below list is non-exhaustive, there are more out there, but it will still give you an idea of what is available.

Use the arrows on each side to navigate through the gallery.

Triangular | Velvet

Triangular | Plastic

Snout (cat) | Plastic

Snout (dog) | Glass

Heart | Plastic

EYE SHAPES AND TEXTURES

The eyes, which you can buy in pairs or individually, are most frequently oval-shaped with circular pupils, vertical ones (suitable for stuffed cats or snakes), fully black ones, simple ones, shiny ones that make the eyes spark, etc. Some pairs are specifically made for dolls, especially those with eye sockets. The size allows you to customise the look: the bigger the eyes compared to the proportions of the face, the more different the face and facial expression will be.

Use the arrows on each side to navigate through the gallery.

Sparkling | Glass

Vertical | Glass

Black | Plastic

Circular | Glass

Cartoon | Plastic

HOW TO ATTACH THEM

Safety eyes and noses are particularly resistant. They come in multiple shapes, colors, and sizes. They’re measured in millimeters, which represent the diameter of the eye. They have a short and thick pin, which is secured with a washer. The washer is always provided, usually made of clear plastic, sometimes metal. To secure them, use a sewing punch (or any other sharp tool, except for scissors) to make a hole at the desired spot (unless you have already left a dedicated opening when sewing the head), then insert the element into the fabric. Once put in place, stuff the head temporarily to have a preview of the final result. If you are satisfied with it, take the stuffing out and secure the element with its washer from the inside of the stuffed animal, while making sure to not let the fur inside as well. To take the element out, the only thing you need to do is to take out the washer from the inside of the stuffed toy.

Tips #1

You might need strength to secure the washer. So, to make it easier for yourself, use an installation tool specifically made for that purpose. You can find one on Etsy.com. Or you can also use snap pliers.

Tips #2

Use position eyes to determine which size eye to use and the best position for them to be placed.

Furthermore, other types of facial features exist. Let’s see how to install them, too.

WITH WIRE LOOP

You can also find glass eyes and noses with round wire loops. Note that to use this type of element on a teddy bear, the head must be stuffed. This technique is particularly suitable for restoration if you would like to replace a nose or a eye without having to unstitch the head. Double thread a long needle with the loop, fold the loop on itself with the help of pliers (or your fingers will do) to make it flat. With an awl or a sewing punch, make a hole at the desired placement. Now, drive the needle in the hole, through the fabric, making it come out of the back of the neck. Pull the thread very tightly, inserting the loop into the hole, seating the eye flatly and firmly against the fabric. Tie securely a knot. You can stitch again the knot to tighten it further.

USING GLUE

For flat eyes, or round eyes with a flat back, you just need to glue them to the face, preferably with a strong glue that you can adjust, so that you have time to place them straight. This method is easier on smooth fabrics or short fur. For long fur, you will first need to trim the fur down to avoid creating an empty space between the element and the face.

ON WIRE

Occasionally, you will find eyes that are mounted on a wire. These ones are more frequently used for needle felting projects. The wire should be directly inserted into the face and secured in the wool. You can cut the extra wire that sticks out at the back of the head with pliers, if needed.

USING GLUE

ON WIRE

SHELVES HUNG WITH OLD BELTS

Morgane — Tue, 06 Apr 2021 12:00:09 +0000

In this tutorial, we will see how to build small decorative shelves. It’s quick, easy, and it only requires basic supplies! You will be able to use them for holding books, candles, or stuffed animals. You need some wood, belts, and a few nails. You can use what you may already have at home, such as scrap wood, old belts to recycle, or even buttons that will be used to decorate the edge of the shelf. With this method, we do not cut the straps on the front, and the wall mounts are invisible. Perfect for a cosy and rustic atmosphere!

SUPPLIES LIST FOR ONE SHELF

1 wooden board of 32x10cm

2 belts of 70cm minimum

8 nails, a hammer, and a pair of scissors

1 wooden board of 32x10cm
2 belts of 70cm minimum
8 nails, a hammer, and a pair of scissors

THE PROCESS

Step 1: If needed, cut the wooden board beforehand to the desired length with the help of a saw and sand the edges if they are too sharp. Position the belt with the buckle and the holes on the side you decide is the front of the shelf. If you need to shorten the strap, cut the extra centimetres with scissors on the side that will be against the wall, so that the two shortened ends meet at the back of the board.

Step 2: Nail the ends to the back edge of the shelf with a hammer. This side does not need to be aesthetically pleasing, it will be hidden by the wall anyway, so just try to make it as flat as possible to avoid creating a space between the shelf and the wall once mounted.

Step 3: Drive another nail on the bottom part to lay the belt flat on the board. The shelf is done already! The only thing left to do is to mount it on the wall. To do so, nail each belt to the wall, placing the nail in the folded part at the top, they are now completely hidden. If you want it to be safer or if you want to place heavier objects on it, replace the nail with a wall plug and a screw.

Here are a few decorating ideas with the wooden shelves.

BASIC TOOLS FOR THE MAKING OF STUFFED ANIMALS

Morgane — Sun, 14 Feb 2021 12:00:00 +0000

To make stuffed animals, you will need a few creation tools. Some very basic ones, which you cannot do without, and other more specific ones, which you can skip, but which will save you a lot of time and make it easier for you. They are not materials (stuffing, fabrics, joints, etc.), but they are tools. Here is a quick overview of what could be essential or useful to have on hand.

BASIC TOOLS:

Fabric pencil
Pair of scissors
Sewing needle
Embroidery needle
Sewing machine
Iron + protective cloth

Punch / awl
Seam ripper
Glue gun
Clear ruler
Pin cushion
Round end pins

USEFUL TOOLS:

Insertion tool
Position eyes
Snap pliers
Turning tool
Thread clipper
Stuffing tool

BASIC TOOLS:

USEFUL TOOLS:

Fabric pencil
Pair of scissors
Sewing needle
Embroidery needle
Sewing machine
Iron + protective cloth

Punch / awl
Seam ripper
Glue gun
Clear ruler
Pin cushion
Round end pins

Insertion tool
Position eyes
Snap pliers
Turning tool
Thread clipper
Stuffing tool

If you do not have some of the necessary tools on the spot, here are a few tricks.

Instead of a stuffing tool, you can use chopsticks.
If you don't have position eyes, round end pins will do the trick!
To insert the eyes, replace the traditional insertion tool with snap pliers.
No special fabric pencil? Use a piece of chalk that you sharpen with a pencil sharpener.

HOW TO SEW A TEDDY BEAR

Morgane — Thu, 24 Dec 2020 12:00:46 +0000

We are going to learn how to sew an articulated teddy bear from start to finish. Do not worry if you have never sewn anything before, this DIY project is suitable for beginners. You can use a sewing machine, or you can do it entirely by hand if you do not have one. Here below, you will find the list of necessary supplies and the free 3-pages printable pattern in A4 format. You can use any type of fabric, given that it is thick enough not to tear when you will insert the articulations. This article breaks down the process with pictures, and you can find the video of the making process at the bottom of the page.

SUPPLIES LIST

Faux fur fabric:
10mm | Light brown n° 11
Faux suede fabric:
Dark brown
Set of plastic joints:
5-Piece kit 35 Ø

Plastic eyes:
15mm | Black
Velvet nose:
14mm | Dark brown
Polyester fibre:
“Soft flocks”

Wooden button: « Handmade with love »
Tag: easy to customize
Embroidery floss + sewing thread: DMC
Scissors + sewing punch
Pins + needles

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Necessary amount of fabric + cutting The teddy bear is average sized, it is 32 cm (12.6 inches) high when standing up and 20 cm (7.9 inches) when sitting down. For the entirety of the body, you will need fabric of at least 22 x 147 cm for cutting in one row, or of 44 x 78 cm for cutting in two rows. For the palms and the soles, you will need a strip of 15 x 15 cm. See the picture shown here to give you a better idea of the necessary amount of fabric and the distribution of the pattern, following the direction of the pile (nap).

PREPARING THE PIECES

Tip #1: print the pattern on a thick piece of paper (photo paper for example) or on simple paper that you will glue onto a piece of cardboard to give it some thickness, which will make it easier to manipulate

If possible, start by washing the fabrics in a washing machine. This way, the fur will shed less when you work with it. On the wrong side of the fabric, transfer every piece of the pattern and trace the outline (with a pen or a pencil, do not use felt-tip pens as they can stain your hands and thus, the fabric you are handling). Then cut them, leaving at least 1 centimetre of seam allowance. For some pieces, cut a second time by flipping the pattern on the other side to have a mirror image of the first one. Do not forget to make reference marks for the joints. You should end up with the following pieces:

Head
Back
Belly
Leg
Forehead
Outer arm
Inner arm
Sole
Ear

ADVICE FOR THE FOLLOWING STEPS

Tip #2: When you are sewing on the wrong side, make sure to always push the fur inward to prevent it from being stuck in the seam.

Tip #3: On the right side, after sewing pieces together, go through the seams delicately to take out any fur that might be stuck in there. Use a pin or a needle to do so.

SEWING THE LEGS

I. SEWING THE LEGS: fold one leg in half lengthwise on the right-sides, so that you work on the wrong side (image 1), pin it then sew along the dotted line on image 2, leaving an opening for the sole, and another one to turn the fabric right-side out and to stuff the leg later.

II. SEWING THE SOLES: take one of the soles and put it against the dedicated opening. Make sure that the good side faces the inside of the leg. Pin the outline and sew it to attach the two pieces together (image 3). You can now turn the leg right-side through the opening. Repeat the process and you should end up with two beautiful legs, each complete with their sole (image 4)!

Click on the pictures to show them in full size.

SEWING THE PAW PADS

Put one of the palms at the bottom of an inner arm piece (image 1), paying attention to which side it goes on (left or right). Turn the palm towards the top and pin it (image 2). All that is left to do is to sew the two pieces together (image 3). Repeat these steps to end up with two inner arm pieces with their palms attached (image 4).

SEWING THE ARMS

Take an inner arm piece and put it against an outer arm piece, fur against fur (image 1). Pin it all the way around, then sew along the dotted line on image 2, leaving an opening. Turn the arm right-side out. Repeat the process so you end up with two complete arms, a left one and a right one, with their palms turned inward (image 4).

SEWING THE BODY

Connect the two back pieces together, fur against fur, then pin them and sew along the dotted line on image 2. Do the same thing for the belly. You now have one back piece and one belly piece. Lay those two pieces against one another, the right-sides facing, pin them then sew all the way around (image 3), leaving an opening near the middle, between where an arm and a leg will be. Turn the body right-side out (image 4).

SEWING THE EARS

This is the easiest part. Take two pieces and put them against one another. Pin them and sew the outline, leaving the bottom part open (image 2). All you need to do now is to turn it right-side out and do the same thing once more to have a second ear (image n°4).

SEWING THE HEAD

This is the most difficult part, so do not hesitate to take a look at the tutorial “How to sew a miniature teddy bear”, which has more detailed explanations of this step.

Pin the two head pieces together, fur against fur, and sew the snout on (image 1). Add the forehead piece (giving the impression of an elephant’s trunk), pin it then sew the small part indicated by the dotted line on image 2. Shape the head progressively on each side (image 3): sew the dark blue part to the light blue one, and then the red part to the pink one, until you reach the neck that you will leave open. Make sure to also leave an opening (one or two fingers wide) at the back of the head (left or right). This small opening is not mandatory, but it will help you attach the neck joint more easily later on. Turn the head right-side out (image 4).

The different elements of the teddy bear are now ready to be connected!

ADDING THE LIMBS JOINTS

We are going to use a set of 4 safety joints to connect the body of the teddy bear. Each joint is made up of three pieces: one disk with a pin, one support disk with a hole, and one locking disk that holds the joint in place (the transparent one with a hole). Make the holes using a sewing punch (or any other sharp object except for scissors), then put the first disk into the limb, making the pin stick out (image 1). Insert it in the body, add the support disk, then secure it with the locking disk (image 2). If you are unsure about the placement of the joints, stuff the limbs temporarily to have an idea of the result before securing it all (image 3). There you go, the arms and legs are now attached to the body (image 4).

CREATING THE FACE - PART I

Before adding the joint that connects the head to the body, you need to attach the face elements, which require the neck to still be open. We are using plastic eyes and a velvet nose (we will embroider the smile in part II). In order to be certain about the placement of the different elements, you can temporarily stuff the head (image 2). Use position eyes or simple round headed pins to visualise the placement of everything. For the nose, use a sewing punch to make a hole at the intersection of the three pieces of fabric (the two parts of the face and the beginning of the forehead), put the element in, but do not secure it with the locking disk yet. Do the same thing for the eyes (image 2). If you like the look of it all, secure the elements in place from the inside of the head (image 3).

For more detailed information about safety eyes and noses, take a look at this article.

Now that the body is assembled, we can attach the head.

ADDING THE JOINT FOR THE HEAD - PART I

The process for the head is a little bit different from the one for the limbs. To start, stuff the head through the opening of the neck (image 1). Once well shaped, sew with a running stitch all the way around the neck like shown by the dotted line on image 2. Add the disk with a pin inside the head, making the pin stick out (image 3), then pull on the thread to close the neck and tie a knot (image 4).

ADDING THE JOINT FOR THE HEAD - PART II

Make a hole at the top of the body where you wish to attach the head (image 2), then put in the pin that comes out of the head. Secure it from the inside of the body by adding the two disks: the support disk (image 3) and the safety disk (image 4). Optional: to push the pin in more easily, put a finger in the opening that you left at the back of the teddy bear’s head, then close it.

The teddy bear now has a good head on its shoulders!

STUFFING THE BODY

You can now stuff each part one by one in an even way. The type of stuffing you use is important, the firmer it is, the more muscular your teddy bear will be, and the lighter and fluffier it is, the softer it will be.

ATTACHING THE EARS

The ears are secured with pins before being sewn.

Close the bottom part of the ears by sewing them by hand (image 1). You can leave them empty (so that they are soft) or stuff them (so that they are well shaped). Once closed (image 2), pin them to the head of the teddy bear, preferably with large pins (image 3), then sew them in place using a ladder stitch (image 4).

CREATING THE FACE - PART II

We will now finish the face! I like to do this step once the head is definitively stuffed and attached to the body. Embroider the smile you wish to give the teddy bear, while pushing the fur to the sides. Prefer a thick thread of the same colour as the nose. With the help of small pliers, take out the stuffing that might come out with the thread.

For more detailed explanations on embroidering smiles, this article is here for you.

BUTTON AND TAG

This is an optional step, it allows you to customise your teddy bear. I suggest making a navel out of a button. I am using a wood button with “handmade with love” written on it, and a customised tag at the bottom of the bear’s back, just like the teddy bears from the stores! Insert the needle through the opening of the body and make come out in the navel area (image 1). Insert the needle through the opening of the body and make it come out in the navel area. Insert the button into the needle, then put it back into the belly (image 3). Pull, then tie a knot (image 2). For the tag, simply sew one end with a thread of a similar shade (image 3).

CLOSING THE SEAMS

Your teddy bear is ready for adventure! You can find the video of the making process below.